Get Informed About Radon

Posted on March 1, 2012 by David

Learn more about radon and other home maintenance items. Purchase the California Building Performance Guidelines at www.housefixit.com.

General Subject Information: 
Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that is a result of decaying thorium and uranium.  Radon typically comes from rocks containing uranium and thorium, like certain granites or shales.  The colorless and odorless gas can be found in the air, or it can be absorbed into ground water and then subsequently released in the air.  Radon is considered to be chemically inert, meaning it does not readily combine with other chemicals.  However, certain levels of radon exposure can be hazardous to human health.

Why is it important to know about radon? 
Radon is classified as a human carcinogen by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). It is the leading cause of lung cancer among non-smokers and the second leading cause among smokers.  However, any cancer resulting from inhaling radon is not likely to become apparent for at least 20-30 years after initial exposure.  The level of radon exposure, duration of exposure, and use of tobacco (smoking) are factors in determining the risk of developing lung cancer.  Exposure to radon does not result in acute respiratory symptoms such as colds, asthma, or allergies.

A standard unit of measurement for radon is picocuries per liter of air (pCi/L). In the United States the average level of radon found indoors is 1.3 pCi/L, but it can range from 0.25 to over 3,000 pCi/L. There is insufficient data to define a “safe” or harmless level of radon, though it is accepted that the greater the level of exposure and the longer duration of exposure, the greater the health risk.  The EPA guideline states that radon levels should not exceed 4 pCi/L indoors.  If the radon level of your home measures above 4pCi/L, the homeowner should consider a radon mitigation system.

Radon gas enters the home through the soil from cracks and openings in concrete slabs, crawl spaces, floor drains, sumps, and concrete blocks.  Generally, living areas that are closest to the soil will have the highest levels of radon, as compared to living areas or rooms on second stories.  Radon can also be present in tap water, as it can be absorbed into the ground water from soil containing radon.  Radon present in water can be released when showering, washing dishes, or washing clothes.  Radon can also be present in water when the water source is a well that is exposed to uranium and radium rock strata.  Radon is of more of a concern when it comes from this type of source.  A granite countertop is not considered harmful because of its low level of emission.

Builder Responsibility:
Within certain counties of the following states, the builder is required to install an approved radon mitigation system:   
• Florida
• Maine
• Maryland
• Michigan
• Minnesota
• New Jersey
• Oregon
• Virginia
• Washington

Each state has slightly different requirements.  As the harmful effects of radon become more widely known more states are expected to institute radon regulations.  The builder is not responsible for the presence of radon.

Homeowner Responsibility: 
Whether the house contains a radon mitigation system or not, it should be tested.  It is not possible to test for radon on a lot before a house is built.  Results can vary from house-to-house, and from street-to-street. 

  • Homeowners may also consult a government agency to help them determine the amounts of radon present in the home and any recommended subsequent actions.   To get more information on radon testing, call 1-800-SOS-RADON.
  • A water test should be considered, especially if the indoor air levels of radon are at or above the EPA guideline of 4pCi/L.  The water company that supplies the house should have information about the source of the water and any radon tests performed.  If the house has water supplied by a well, homeowners should contact a laboratory certified for radon testing to perform a water test. 
  • For more information on radon, visit www.epa.gov.
Posted in Construction Practices, Green Building, Green Home, Green Maintenance, Home Maintenance, Home Ownership, Renting, home builders, housing recovery | Leave a comment

Walnut Creek Man Enters Hall of Fame

Posted on July 21, 2011 by David

San Francisco-David MacLellan, 69, a 45 year resident of Walnut Creek and Lafayette, was inducted into the California Homebuilding Foundation Hall of Fame on June 21. The ceremony took place at the Intercontinental Hotel as a kick-off for the 2011 Pacific Coast Builder’s Conference at the Moscone Center.

 MacLellan, who was a Bay Area homebuilder for 25 years and an industry consultant for 17 years, was one of five persons recognized for their contributions to the long term advancement of homebuilding. MacLellan was recognized particularly for his contributions as an author of three books that set the workmanship standards for the homebuilding industry, both in California and nationally. His flagship book, the California Building Performance Guidelines for Residential Construction and Homeowner Maintenance Guide was first published in 2002 and has sold more than 70,000 copies.

As the CEO of Pacific InterWest Building Consultants Inc. a tri-state quality control company, MacLellan became concerned, first as a homebuilder, and later as a consultant, that a new homeowner did not have any reference material to rely on for reasonable workmanship standards. The California Guidelines book levels the playing field between consumer expectations and a builder’s ability to perform. This book has been used by the California Superior Courts, the Contractors State License Board, as well as builders and homeowners.

Currently, MacLellan is writing a new book that will cover uniform workmanship guidelines in all 50 states.

Posted in Construction Practices, Green Building, Home Maintenance, Home Ownership, Uncategorized, home builders | Leave a comment

Solar Hot Water

Posted on March 16, 2011 by David

Solar hot water systems have been in existence for 40 years or more. These systems had historic problems of freezing and panel failures from UV breakdown. Technology has improved and many of today’s systems do not circulate the water from the storage tank to the roof. Rather, a non-freezing mixture of glycol and water is heated in the roof panels and the hot fluid transfers its heat to water in the storage tank via a heat exchanger. In many systems, the storage tank also serves as a backup water heater for nights and cloudy days. There is a recirculating pump that keeps the fluid moving through the panels and piping. he roof.

 

 Recommended Maintenance: Like many systems that handle the flow of water, the maintenance of the system depends upon the quality of the water supplied to it. In areas where the main source of potable water is wells, either municipal or private, the water is likely to have a significant mineral content. At least once a year, the primary storage tank/heater should be drained by connecting a hose to the bib on the tank. Be sure to cut off the power to the recirculating pump. Failure to do this will result in the pump overheating and failing because there is no fluid passing through it to cool it. If the tank has a gas or electrical back up, be sure to turn off the gas or throw the breaker marked: Water Heater. Drain the tank completely into an area that can accept hot water (not a landscaped area). When the tank is completely drained, refill it and turn the gas or electricity and the recirculating pump back on. 

Because of the high heat loads that the glycol solution is subjected to, it will eventually break down and the system will have to be recharged. The recharging must be performed by a qualified technician. The glycol solution should be tested annually, in late fall. 

Also, on an annual basis, wash and inspect the collector panels on the roof. If the roof is a tile roof, it is recommended that the inspection be conducted with binoculars from a ladder. Do not walk on the tile (it is likely to break). Look for any cracks in the panel surface and leaks in the piping. If either are found, it is recommended that a professional service contractor be called in for repairs. Clean the panels when they are cool, such as during the early morning. 

Stay tuned for the next maintenance item to complete on your Green Home! 

* This blog contains items that are guidelines to follow. Advanced prototype and limited production components are not considered. If any conflicts exist between these guidelines, and those set forth in the manufacturer’s literature, the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions shall take precedence. 

© 2011 All Rights Reserved MacLellan Media, Inc 

 

Posted in Construction Practices, Green Building, Green Home, Green Maintenance, Home Maintenance, Home Ownership, Uncategorized, home builders | Leave a comment

Green Home Maintanance – Solar Photovoltaic Panels

Posted on February 27, 2011 by David

Today’s green building places great emphasis on resource conservation, by using sustainable and renewable materials, by reducing our dependency upon carbon based products, and by limiting consumption of both water and power.

Green home maintenance is not very different from conventional home maintenance. HouseFixIt.com will blog items that homeowners should complete on their green home.

Solar panels, usually mounted on the roof, provide a low voltage direct current from the sun’s rays that activate a metal based compound in the panel. The direct current must be transformed into a higher voltage (typically 110 volts in the USA), and converted into alternating current. The solar panels produce the current and a device called an inverter, increases the voltage and changes the current to AC. In addition, some systems have storage batteries to store electricity and release it at night. The amount of electricity produced is a function of the amount of sunshine, the size of the system, the outdoor temperature and the cleanliness of the panels.

Recommended Maintenance: 

  • Solar Panels: at least twice a year or more often in dusty areas, wash the panels just like a window or skylight. Use a green based, non-phosphate, non-ammonia detergent. At this time check all roof penetrations and mounting brackets for cracked caulking or loose brackets. Apply low VOC sealant (caulk) and tighten brackets as needed. Try to stay off the roof, particularly if it is tile. Use a long handled brush and hose to perform the cleaning. Solar panels get hot, and they should be cleaned only when they are cool, such as during the early morning.
  • Inverter: depending upon manufacturer or amount of use, an inverter should be maintenance free until it needs to be replaced. This replacement typically occurs every 5 to 7 years. However, the inverter should be inspected weekly to verify electrical output, assuming that the inverter has an LED readout.
  • Storage Batteries: while battery technology is evolving rapidly, most of the batteries at the time of this publication are deep cycle lead-acid batteries. Just like an RV or marine battery, the useful life of the battery array is dependent upon the frequency of the charge/discharge cycle. The terminals of all batteries should be inspected monthly for evidence of corrosion (white powder known as sulfates), and if present, it should be removed carefully with a stiff non-metallic brush. 

Caution! Do not touch both terminals at the same time. Do not touch either the + or – terminals with your hands or any non-insulated tool. Severe electrical shock could result. When the terminals are clean, apply an anti-corrosion spray to them (available at any automotive supply store). 

Additional Comments: 

If the solar panels are mounted on raised frames off the roof surface, they will need to be removed when it is time to replace the roofing. This is an additional cost that the Homeowner should consider. Because solar panels get hot as a normal part of their operation, they may cause the roofing, both underneath and surrounding, to deteriorate faster than the rest of the roof. Annual inspections are recommended. Also, if the system is of such capacity that all electrical demand is met “off the grid”, the utility company is likely to still charge a base fee for remaining connected to their grid. 

Stay tuned for the next maintenance item to complete on your Green Home! 

* Handy Hammer’s™  HowTo’s are guidelines to follow. Advanced prototype and limited production components are not considered. If any conflicts exist between these guidelines, and those set forth in the manufacturer’s literature, the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions shall take precedence. 

 Handy Hammer™ is a registered trademark of MacLellan Media, Inc.

Posted in Construction Practices, Green Building, Green Home, Green Maintenance, Home Maintenance, Home Ownership, home builders | Leave a comment

Renting vs Buying – To Maintain or Not to Maintain?

Posted on July 9, 2009 by David

My former neighbor is a genius. Two years ago, he sold his Bay Area house for a very fat profit, and for the first time in 20 years, he and his wife became renters. His profit for owning the house for three years was tax-free, and was probably equal to the 35% that the house subsequently declined in value. This definitely fits the old expression of “having your cake and eating it.”

But wait a minute. There’s much more to the renting versus buying debate than money—particularly now since we are no long in the era of “Your house is your ATM”. Homeownership has reverted back to the warm and fuzzy “this is my castle” mentality. Conversely, a rental house (or apartment) is owned by someone else, and you as a renter, are given the limited rights of tenancy. True, someone else has to mow the lawn, fix the leaky roof, and apply paint to the peeling siding. Whether this gets done or not usually depends upon the motivation of the landlord.

Often when you drive through a neighborhood, you can spot the rental homes. They are the ones with the unkempt landscaping, cars in various states of repair in the driveway, and a few shingles missing from the roof. Persons who own their own homes tend to maintain them, while a renter has little motivation to do so. For many, renting is a short term proposition until they save enough for a down payment to buy a house. For others, it’s a lifelong perceived escape from home maintenance.

However, proper and routine home maintenance doesn’t have to fall somewhere between having a root canal and a 24/7 migraine. The key is to know what to do, and when to do it (or have it done by experts). When I wrote The National Home Maintenance Manual, I had the homeowner in mind who would rather play golf, go fishing or attend a concert. Everything in the book is laid out according to the components of the house, and the maintenance chart tells you when to do it and how difficult it is to do. And if that’s not enough, our website www.HouseFixIt.com has a free, downloadable 10 year schedule of home maintenance tasks. This enables you, as a homeowner, to plan your time and create a budget so you don’t get hit with unpleasant surprises down the road.

One of the great strengths of America has been that the middle class has been able to afford home ownership. The decline in property values over the past 24 months can be viewed as a positive adjustment to affordability.

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The Great American Crapshoot

Posted on February 24, 2009 by David

“Man is the only animal who can be skinned twice” …Will Rogers

Well, it’s a done deal. The Stimulus Bill has been signed into law and now the waiting game begins to see if it will work as intended. We all hope that it will, for the entire world economy is dependent upon the financial health of the United States. The “talking heads” have marveled at how fast the bill went through Congress, which is reminiscent of how fast George Bush was able to convince Congress to declare war on Iraq. There is a valued old saying, “sin in haste, repent at leisure”. Remember that no one who created the Stimulus Bill was alive during the Great Depression, so we are relying upon textbooks and theories at this point.

Now, the next leg of the recovery plan must be to repair the housing industry. The housing industry lead the down cycle in what typically appeared to be another recession that comes along every 5 years or so. And these recessions generally last from 18 months to 3 years. What went wrong this time? Three major factors come to mind:

  • Mortgage Markets Run Amuck. It wasn’t just Fannie and Freddie buying the loans from borrowers who never should have qualified, it was also the jumbo loan servicing companies who knew they could pass along this junk paper to the next “Greater Fool” and Wall Street was ready to assist with this effort by bundling and securitizing mortgages;
  • Bankers Behaving Badly. The traditional bank policy of foreclosing on defaulted property has backfired. Because of the sheer volume of foreclosures, the foreclosed asset cannot be resold for any amount resembling the original loan principal. This compounds the banks’ losses, and gives rise to frequent trips to the Treasury for more taxpayer money. Slowly, lenders are realizing that keeping owners in their homes at lower interest rates is a far better business plan than the losses they realize upon foreclosure;
  • Unrestrained Consumer Greed. The credit card companies play the enabler role in this scenario too. Too many teaser rate credit card offers, too many “must have” cheap goods from China, and the belief by many homeowners that their house was a perpetual ATM.

Who’s to blame?  Forget it.  Putting Bernie Madoff in prison isn’t going to restore investor or consumer confidence in our system. Running the government printing presses to flood the world with paper currency won’t help much either. The real key to recovery is the belief by the consumer that when I wake up tomorrow, I’ll still have my job and a roof over my head. It’s largely psychological because 90% of Americans currently have both. However, “what if” is the Boogie Man gnawing on the human psyche, and that is going to take a long time to repair.

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All That Glitters is not Green

Posted on January 8, 2009 by David

The Era of “Greenwashing” has Begun

 

As a nation we are becoming more aware of the importance of saving the planet earth. In the course of this paradigm shift, economic opportunities are created, and the “Green” movement is no exception. Green products are typically viewed as an upgrade, like organic food, and hence there is a surcharge connected to them.

Greenwashing is the term given to claims made by manufacturers that their products are environmentally friendly, all natural, non-toxic, and helpful to reduce global warming. Greenwashing is designed to appeal to the “feel good” side of the consumer’s conscience. Green products can range from cleaning supplies to computers, to cars, offices, and houses-a very broad spectrum. With each product claiming to be green, by what standards are they judged? After all, if 100% natural products are “green”, then arsenic, radon, lead and asbestos would be green since all these substances occur in nature and are not man made.

Apart from the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) which has published environmental marketing guidelines on product claims made by manufacturers for the past 16 years, there are other organizations that rate various products according to established environmental standards. The most recognized one is the federal government’s Energy Star Program which covers not only appliances, but just about any device that consumes electricity. Other organizations include: EcoLogo for many household products, Green Seal also household products, EPEAT which covers computers and peripherals, Forest Stewardship Council which certifies wood and paper that come from renewable non-old growth forests, U.S. Green Building Council and Build It Green . These latter two organizations certify buildings as they are being built to give them a green rating according to each organization’s point-by-point checklist.

For a newly constructed residence to achieve an independently recognized green rating, considerable effort must be undertaken by the builder. Under the broad goal of trying to get to zero energy consumed by the house, specific items such as super insulation packages, air-tightness of ducts, photovoltaic collectors and tankless water heaters are considered. Even the percentage of construction waste that is recycled is a factor. Because a point system is used, not all green rated houses will have the same energy saving components.

At this time, a few municipalities have adopted mandatory green building standards as part of the building permit process. Where there is no government mandate, builders are free to follow any green program they like, or follow none. To stay competitive and say they are building a green home, several builders are creating their own green building standards. Since the homes will not be built according to a recognized green building program, the issue of greenwashing comes front and center. Without exhaustive studies or research performed by utility companies, it will be extremely difficult for a builder to approximate to a buyer how much energy their home will save compared to a home without the green features. Predictably, the sales brochure is likely to list the energy saving and green features, and the consumer will have to decide whether this house is greener than the one on the other side of the fence.

 

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Christmas on the Cheap – 2008

Posted on December 2, 2008 by David

Regardless of your favorite media, internet, television, or print, you can’t get by without a daily bombardment of negative news. At the present it’s all about worldwide terrorism or the next sector of the economy that is predicted to fail. Most experts who have been around for 40 years or more as adults, confess they haven’t seen any scenario quite like this one.

However, before you throw in the towel and assume the situation is hopeless, consider:
* At an unemployment rate of 8% (predicted to occur in 2009), 92 % of the people still have jobs;
* The steep decline of the stock market has presented buying opportunities that haven’t existed since the dot.com bust seven years ago, and finally;
* General Motors is not going to go out of business. They may seek a Chapter 11 reorganization, there will still be a model 2010 and 2011 Chevrolet rolling off the assembly line.

What’s this have to do with a cheap 2008 Holiday Season? Much of our wealth is in our heads, not in our wallets. If we think we’re well off we’ll behave differently than if we think we’re hurting. Part of the doom and gloom cast upon us was that Black Friday was going to be a retailer’s disaster. Yet, when the dust settled, overall sales were up 3% over 2007. While one day doesn’t make an entire Holiday Season, consumers are acting in a more responsible way this year, but they’re not staying home. The use of plastic is down and that’s good. A large percentage of consumers are still paying off their balances from Christmas 2007. Many shoppers are actually going to their bank first and withdrawing cash to stay within a budget. That’s also good. A debt riddled nation is an enslaved nation. So while the 2008 Holiday Season is likely to be less in total sales than 2007; consumers will still consume, albeit more moderately, and there will be a whole new school of surviving retailers who have taken a chapter from the Book of Wal Mart.

 Have a happy and cheap holiday!

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This Too, Shall Pass

Posted on October 6, 2008 by David

In the throes of an election year, the recent financial collapses in late September and October add additional and unforeseen challenges to the new Washington administration in January. When the year began, the election rhetoric was all about the Iraq war. You hear a lot of talk about Wall Street vs. Main Street, and the change in terminology from “bailout” to “rescue”. The fact is, we’re all in this together, including economies of countries that only recently became interdependent on us and us on them, such as Russia and India.

According to a recent CNN poll, nearly 60% of Americans believe our country is headed for another depression like the 1930’s. Despite the pessimism, a 1930’s type depression is not likely to happen. Here’s why:

1. Bank deposits are insured now up to $250K and in some cases $500K. In the 1930’s there was no insurance for deposits;

2. The foreclosures that were expected to occur in 2009 will be greatly diminished due to forced workouts that lenders will have to apply. We will see interest rate reductions, and even principal reductions. Lenders are finally coming to their senses that helping a homeowner stay in his house makes better economic sense than to take the house back and be forced by the federal banking authorities to sell the property at a loss;

3. Credit markets will loosen up and banks will start to loan to one another again. However consumer credit is likely to remain tough to obtain for the next 12 months;

4. Housing, the segment of the economy that started the downturn, will lead the recovery. The biggest problem that builders face today is the competition with foreclosed homes. Once the foreclosed housing stock is absorbed, building permits will be pulled, and the cycle of new home building will begin, albeit slowly.

However, the real recovery for the long term is to get our snouts out of the trough of foreign oil. Too much of our country’s wealth has already been transferred to the Middle East. Not only is oil harmful to the environment, it is a finite, non-renewable commodity whose price is likely only to go up in future years. Modes of transportation need to change. Unlike other means of automotive propulsion, the electric car offers great promise. The alternatives of hydrogen, fuel cells and liquefied natural gas all require a rebuilding of our infrastructure, but electrical outlets are everywhere. The internal combustion engine may still have applications in aircraft, rail and shipping, but for the rest of us, we’ll be supporting a new, non-polluting industry.

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How to Go Green (Without Spending a Lot of Green)

Posted on June 12, 2008 by David

Green. The buzz word of 2008. We are told that we must all become green. What does this mean? The terms renewable, sustainable, and carbon footprint are often used to the confusion of many. But in its simplest form, going green means conserving energy. The price of fuel is doing its part to reduce travel, and hence greenhouse gasses, but what about your home? In general, the older the home, the more energy it will consume. Here are some tips to apply to your residence without breaking the bank.

Energy Audit. Most utility companies will give their customers a free energy audit. A trained representative will come to your house and inspect your appliances, weatherstripping, insulation, water heater, furnace and air conditioner. The following recommendations are common:

Insulation. About 73% of a house’s energy is gained or lost through the attic. About 22% is lost through the walls and windows/doors, and about 5% is lost through the floor. Proper attic insulation is the most cost effective way to conserve energy in your home. Attics should have at least 12 inches of loose cellulose insulation or the equivalent in batt insulation. Even if the insulation in your house was 12 inches at one time, it may have settled. Adding more insulation is a simple, cost effective task. If the walls are not insulated at all, foam insulation can be pumped into them. If the first floor is not insulated, it is more cost effective to install a thick carpet pad, unless there is a stand-up basement to apply insulation batts. Replacing old weatherstripping is also very cost effective.

Lighting. Fortunately, the incandescent bulb is rapidly becoming a dinosaur. Compact florescent lights (CFL’s) are the replacement of choice. They use about 20 % of the energy of the incandescents, and they now give off a warm glow instead of the old harsh white look. However, there are two caveats to using CFL’s: they cannot be used with dimmers, and the burned out bulbs need to be sent to a hazardous waste disposer because they contain mercury.


Furnace and Air Conditioner. If your furnace is 20 years or older, and if your air conditioner is 10 years or older, they should probably be replaced. Many technological advances have been made in recent years that have dramatically increased heating and cooling efficiencies. This is a capital expense that will increase the comfort of your home and very likely increase its value.

Appliances. Older kitchen appliances are energy hogs, especially electric ranges and refrigerators. When replacing any appliance, look for the Energy Star label before you purchase. Other appliances, such as plasma TV’s, use a significant amount of energy, not only when they are operating, but also when they are in the “standby” mode. If you leave the house for three or more days, it is best to unplug all appliances that have a “standby mode” feature.

Toilets. Toilets may not be thought of as energy consumers, but it takes energy to pump, store and distribute water. Toilets, even the newer 1.6 gallon flush models, are notorious leakers. Depending upon the water quality, deposits can build up inside the tank, thus making the valves hard to seat. Flappers and ballcocks should be replaced about every three years. Toilets that use more than 1.6 gallons per flush (such as the old 3.5 and 7 gallon models) should be replaced entirely. The price of 1.6 gallon flush toilets has come down in recent years, while the price of water has gone up, so this replacement is a cost effective move.

Other Devices. Newly popularized devices, such as photovoltaic solar roof panels, tankless water heaters, bamboo flooring, green lumber and coatings get mentioned frequently in the press, but unless you are planning to buy a new house, your most cost effective way to enter the green movement is to start with the insulation package in your current home.

Posted in Construction Practices, Green Building, Green Home, Green Maintenance, Home Maintenance, Home Ownership, home builders, housing recovery | Tagged , , | Leave a comment